Rouge d’Etampes Pumpkin – “Cucurbita pepo”

Origin: France

We just got done this morning pulling the last of these pumpkins out of our garden…this year was a bumper crop! Also known as the “Cinderella” pumpkin, Rouge d’Etampes grow into a squat pumpkin so brightly orange, it almost seems to glow in the dark.

In my opinion, they are fairly easy pumpkins to grow and very prolific. We got over a dozen nice pumpkins from three plants. Like most members of the squash family, the Rouge d’Etampes needs plenty of space to grow. By mid-summer, ours had taken over the entire garden and was making a bid for the backyard.

An heirloom plant, which has been around for many years, the Rouge d’Etampes is not only decorative but useful in the kitchen. Their meat makes a good pie, soup, or other yummy baked goods. The roasted seeds will make your parrots happy! And so that nothing goes to waste, here is a recipe for using the shell as a pumpkin soup tureen.    

Pumpkin Soup

1. Wash the pumpkin well and dry.
2. Using a sharp knife, insert the tip about 1/3 of the way down, and cut away the top to form a lid. Scoop out the seeds (definitely save them for roasting) and stringy mass.
3. Lightly oil the pumpkin inside and out, then sprinkle the inside with salt.
4. Place the pumpkin and lid on a parchment lined baking sheet or spray with cooking oil spray.
5. Bake at 325 degrees for an hour to an hour and a half (depending on the size of the shell). This is the tricky part. An over-baked shell will not support the weight of the soup so under-baking is preferred. Bake the pumpkin shell until it begins to soften.
6. Remove from the oven and cool.
7. Gently scoop out some of the soft pumpkin from the wall, being careful not to puncture the shell. Scrape the cooked pumpkin from the lid as well. Use this cooked portion for your pumpkin soup or freeze it for later use.
8. Ladle hot soup into the pumpkin and serve. The lid can be used as a cover or you can serve the soup uncovered.

Enjoy!  

The post October 2005 appeared first on Exotic Edibles.

Thai Hot Peppers aka “Thai Dragons” – Capsicum frutescens

Origin: Asia

Hot peppers have gained in popularity over the past few years, due in part to the fact that even marginal gardeners can successfully grow them. Another selling point is many varieties, including Thai Hots, don’t need to be confined to your vegetable garden. These attractive plants can be tucked into an herb or flower garden or even potted up individually on a patio or deck. They flower profusely, often bearing blooms and colorful fruit at the same time.

Growing no taller than 2 ½ to 3 feet, Thai Hot peppers are prolific plants that are great for containers. They enjoy full sunlight and light fertilization. Their many branches can support 150 to 200 small fruits that mature from green to red in approximately 65 to 70 days. These peppers work well either fresh or dried. But be forewarned, they are very hot (almost as hot as habaneros) so wear gloves when you harvest or handle them.

If you have more Thai Hot peppers than you know what to do with, do try drying them right on the plant. When peppers are dried slowly, they will retain their color and flavor. Do keep in mind that dried Thai Hots are close to ten times hotter than fresh ones. No wonder, they are nicknamed “Thai Dragons”.

The post August 2005 appeared first on Exotic Edibles.

Origin: World

Healthy, tasty, full of nutrition and rich in dietary fiber, Gourmet Greens are wonderful. Not only are they easy to grow, even in northern climates, with the aid of cold frames, cloches, and greenhouses; many can be grown year-round. 

For all of you sick of digging out from the latest snowstorm, the promise of fresh, tender greens has to be irresistible. So although the list is long, there are three Gourmet Greens which I think deserve special notice especially at this time of the year.

Young Amaranth (Amaranthus spp.) plants are rich in protein, especially the amino acid lysine, as well as other vitamins, minerals and dietary fibers. The seeds are also quite healthy additions  to breads, hot cereals and muffins.  

Mustard Greens (Brassica juncea) are a staple of oriental cuisines, adding color and zest to any salad when young. Cold tolerant, they are a good source of protein, thiamin, riboflavin, dietary fiber, vitamins A, C and B6.

Although a mustard family member, Cress (Lepidium sativum) is among the earliest to germinate. Its peppery sweet taste can add a unique touch to any salad. And again, Cress is another plant rich in calcium, phosphate and vitamins A and C.    

 Not only are Gourmet Greens an economical way to diversify your garden, they can also enrich you and your pet’s diet.

Growing Tip:

For a steady harvest of gourmet greens, try sowing successively at two week intervals from early spring through late summer.

The post March 2005 appeared first on Exotic Edibles.

Purple Majesty Ornamental Millet  – Pennisetum glaucum

Origin: USA

This winner of the 2003 All-America Selections committee is indeed a very special plant. Not only did this millet win the Gold Medal, which is awarded typically only once or twice in a decade, but it will rank just as high with your neighborhood wildlife.

Purple Majesty ornamental millet came about as a fluke in a University of Nebraska breeding program and is actually just a showier version of the plant normally used for forage or grain. This ornamental millet starts out green and gradually changes in the full sun to a deep purple all the way from the base of its stem to the tip of long, flower-packed stalks. Growing up to four to five feet in height, Purple Majesty works equally well in boarders or containers.

This annual does very well in sunny, well-drained sites and is fairly easy to grow. The only downside seems to be that the seeds are on the slow side to germinate (up to three to four weeks) and the seedlings have a tendency to succumb to damping off disease. Using sterile soil and constant air movement will generally take care of the damping off problem. Other than that,
Purple Majesty is a trouble-free, outstanding garden performer, which your birds will love you for growing.

The post March 2004 appeared first on Exotic Edibles.

Winter Squash – Cucurbita maxima

Origin: Mexico

This month will focus on a particular group of plants within a genus, the winter squash. They differ from summer squash in that it is harvested and consumed in the mature stage, when the seeds have matured and the skin hardened into a tough rind. Winter squash gets its name from the fact that most varieties can be stored throughout the winter. This is a great way to have tasty, nutritious meals for you and your birds all year round.  In fact many cooks prefer winter squash to pumpkin because they make a non-fibrous pie.

Adapted to a wide range of growing situations, winter squash comes in two types, vining which requires a large garden and bush, which can be grown in small gardens. I’ve even managed to grow a fruit producing one in a large container. Regardless of the type, all do need some “elbow room”.

Squash seeds do not germinate in cold soil and seedlings are highly susceptible to frost. I generally will start my seeds indoors and transplant when the soil is warm and the danger of frost is past. The vining varieties should be planted in hills with at least 50 square feet of space (5 to 6 feet between hills and 7 to 12 feet between rows). Bush types should have about 3 feet between plants and 5 feet between rows.

Winter squash needs to be kept free of weeds and benefits from additional watering during dry periods. Once its vines cover the ground, it requires minimal care. It can be harvested whenever the fruits have turned a deep, overall color and the rind is hard. You should harvest before heavy frost hits. Cut the squash carefully, leaving approximately 2 inches of stem attached. Avoid bruising or damaging the fruits when handling because injured squash does not keep in storage.

Suggested Bush Varieties:

• All Season
• Sweet Mama
• Table Gold, Table King, Table Queen

Suggested Vining Varieties:

• Banana
• Hubbard
• Delicious

The post November 2003 appeared first on Exotic Edibles.

Stevia – Stevia rebaudiana

Also known as Caa’he-e (Ca-he-he) by South American Indians

Origin – Paraguay and Brazil

This herb which grows wild as a small shrub is one of the world’s sweetest kept secrets. It’s leaves have been used as natural sweetener since Pre-Columbian days. Countries such as Japan, Brazil, China all utilize  it as a superior replacement for sugar. An all natural herb, Stevia, has been through dozens of tests around the world and found to be completely non-toxic. It won’t raise blood sugar levels and in studies conducted at Purdue University’s Dental Science Research Group, it significantly inhibited the formation of plaque. For folks who have pets with a “sweet tooth”, Stevia is a great option.  My birds and my beagle all enjoy sampling a leaf.

 Stevia is a perennial often grown as an annual since it is not the easiest plant to over-winter. In my opinion, it’s benefits far outweigh the extra effort. Here are some tips for container growing:

•  Stevia grows best in cooler weather but requires a minimum of 12 hours light. The container can be moved from the south side to the east side during hot, summer months and then moved back again when cooler fall weather arrives.

•  Use a three gallon container (wooden or double pot method to insulate the roots) which has drain holes. Stevia likes to be kept evenly moist and should never be completely dried out. Cover the bottom of the container with pea gravel, then add one part garden soil, one part potting soil and one part clean sand to approximately the halfway point of the pot. Next, use two parts garden soil, one part organic humus and one part clean sand to fill the container the rest of the way. You can mulch the top with spagnum peat moss or fir bark as the temperature rises. Gently misting the plant in the early morning hours will also help keep Stevia cooler. 

•  Fertilize every two weeks with a good organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion or a combination of bonemeal and bloodmeal. However, too much fertilizer will cause large flavorless leaves.  

•  Stevia does not do well in temperatures below 50 F so unless you live in zone 11, plan on moving your plants inside before the first frost. Keep it in a sunny windowsill or better yet, underneath grow lights. Stevia needs a minimum of 12 hours of light to prevent flowering and ultimately cause the plant to die-off.

• One trick used by commercial greenhouses is to set a timer to turn the grow lights back on at around 10:00pm and off again at 3:00am. This night interruption will prevent flowering.

 Not only will your pets enjoy the benefits of  Stevia, but you can use it in place of sugar in many recipes (1 tsp crushed or powdered leaves equals 1 cup refined sugar) or to sweeten teas, coffee, etc.       

The post June 2001 appeared first on Exotic Edibles.

Hardy Starter Bamboos

Phyllostachys nigra, “Bory”, purpurata

Origin: China

The diversity of bamboo is incredible. It has evolved to fill a variety of ecological niches ranging from the tropics to Alpine regions, from rain forest to dry chaparral, and from acid to alkaline soil. A genus that has worked out well for me here in the Northeast is Phyllostachys.

The variety of conditions which this genus can be grown lends itself to almost anyone interested in growing bamboo. All species of Phyllostachys have edible shoots and almost all can handle the hot summers and cold winters common to zone 5. A runner, this genus grows best in full sun at maturity but like some shade when younger. The heaviest shooting for Phyllostachys occurs during the spring.

I’d like to cover three from this genus which are my favorites.

• Phyllostachys nigra or Black Bamboo grows to about 15′ in height with beautiful black culms (stems) and plumed masses of small leaves. The culms start out green and change to black during the first year or so. It is very sensitive to salts and minerals in the water and soil which result in leaf tip burn. I use only collected rain water for this species and am very careful about over watering. Although these could go in the ground, I have kept mine in pots. I keep them outdoor for approximately six months and move them in during the winter. When misted daily, they do well indoors.

• Phyllostachys nigra “Bory” or Leopard Bamboo is a variation of the Black Bamboo. It grows larger (30′ to 50′) and develops large decorative black spots on the culms instead of being a solid black. The Leopard Bamboo can take temperatures down to – 5 degrees F and has excellent tolerance for summer heat, winter cold and drought. However; like all other bamboos, you must be careful when re-potting. Bamboo grows in spurts, which happen in the spring and again in the fall. Wait until late fall, after its done growing, to do any re-potting or re-planting. Use a good potting mix which drains well, yet retains moisture. Never use a regular commercial plant mix. Here are some suggested mixes:

• Mix #1 – 25% sand, 20% perlite, 35% compost, 20% bark chips.
• Mix #2 –  20% sand, 20% volcano cinders, 40% bark chips, 20% peat
• Mix #3 –  35% perlite, 20% volcano cinders, 30% compost, 15% bark chips

• Phyllostachys purpurata or Zig Zag Bamboo is smaller than the other two. It’s delicate culms tend to grow in a angled pattern, hence the common name. It is hardy to 0 degree F and will bend to the ground under the weight of a heavy rain or wind. As with all container grown bamboo, it needs to be fertilized on a regular basis. I generally use organics such as fish emulsion and sea kelp. In Asia, the bamboo fertilizer of choice is well composted horse manure. You can use other manures if they are available but be careful of the nitrogen hot ones such as chicken manure.              

For More Bamboo How-To, check out this section of the Website.

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